A world of coral
Near to the horizon, the sky and the sea become one in a symphony of different shades of turquoise. From the air you can see these remote islands rising out of the Caribbean Sea off the coast of Venezuela, covering an area of 225,000 hectares, protected by a spectacular living wall of coral reefs.
Los Roques is a paradise made up of 50 unspoiled rocky islands, surrounded by a huge barrier of coral and sandy beaches cosseted by warm waters, which in recent years have become a Mecca for those looking for underwater exploration, complete relaxation and a chance to observe marine life.
The Los Roques atoll is arranged in a rectangular shape around a huge marine lagoon containing hundreds of deserted islets, covered in green mangrove and impenetrable coral reefs, which play host to seagulls, pelicans, laughing gulls, herons, boobies and frigate birds.
Many of the islands are nesting sites for birds. Others such as Dos Mosquises, are used as biological research stations by a project which incubates turtle eggs and releases the hatchlings into the wild. Tourists can visit these given prior arrangement with their tour company.
The capital of this archipelago is Gran Roques Island, which is part of an extensive Marine National Park founded in 1972 in order to conserve the lobster and the Hawksbill Turtle, both species that had been badly affected by over fishing region wide.
I fell in love with Los Roques the very first time I set eyes on the island. Dozens of newly painted boats bobbed just off shore, while a group of visitors were chatting with fishermen in front of the town’s white painted chapel. All along the beach, hundreds of pelicans were launching themselves like arrows in search of fish. The town woke up and a new day began. The bars opened their doors, the first small planes arrived and the fishermen prepared their boats for their daily fishing trips. This Antillean jewel sparkled with indescribable harmony and beauty.
The inhabitants of this island have much to be proud of. The guided eco tours and the increasing involvement by local fishermen in providing transportation and accommodation for visitors has created a healthy community with a real conservationist mind set based on the very businesses that make conservation possible.
The island was originally inhabited by fishermen although in ancient times they were visited by the Carib Indians, who came from the continental mainland in huge canoes to practice their funeral rites. After the Spanish conquest, the islands became a temporary refuge for pirates and privateers from whence they planned their attacks on the Spanish treasure fleets, laden with gold and other treasures from the New World.
In the middle of the 17th century the inhabitants of the nearby island of Margarita were attracted by the incredibly rich fishing grounds of Los Roques. Many of them came to settle on Gran Roque Island, and today their descendents still share with visitors the stories of their ancestors.
Following the initial colonization by fishermen, over exploitation of these marine resources, led to shrinking fish stocks. The next wave of settlers was the scientists and conservationists who were convinced that this very special ecosystem deserved protection. Effective management, imposition of catch limits and re-training the fishermen in the business of eco tourism in turn led to the marine habitats and fish stocks being restored. Today Los Roques Marine Park is a model that others around the world can learn from.
And now the sun is setting into a fiery sea, which is being stirred up by an enormous shoal of fish, and I am comforted that this natural treasure has indeed recovered, and is now playing its part as a marine refuge in the middle of the Atlantic Ocean. |
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